DIY Golf Simulator Projector Enclosure: Protect Your Investment

Why Your Projector Needs Protection

A golf ball traveling at 150+ mph will destroy a $1,000+ projector instantly. And it's not just full shanks - topped shots, ricochet off the screen frame, and even balls rolling back can all find their way to your projector.

A proper enclosure costs $50-150 in materials and a few hours of work. That's cheap insurance for your most fragile piece of equipment.

Enclosure Design Options

Option 1: Ceiling-Mounted Box (Most Common)

Best for: Projectors mounted on the ceiling behind the hitting position

Advantages:

• Out of the way
• Easy access for adjustments
• Professional look

Challenges:

• Requires ceiling mounting skills
• Must allow proper ventilation

Option 2: Floor-Standing Cabinet

Best for: Ground-mounted projectors or those who don't want ceiling work

Advantages:

• No ceiling work required
• Easy to move and adjust
• Can double as storage

Challenges:

• Takes floor space
• Must be stable (tip-resistant)

Option 3: Hanging Protective Cage

Best for: Quick protection without full enclosure

Advantages:

• Simple to build
• Doesn't affect ventilation
• Transparent visibility

Challenges:

• Less protection than full box
• May obstruct projector lens slightly

Materials and Tools

For Ceiling Box Enclosure

Materials (~$75-120):

• 3/4" plywood or MDF (one 4x4 sheet)
• 2x2 lumber (8 feet)
• Wood screws (1.5" and 2.5")
• Impact-resistant polycarbonate sheet (1/4" thick, 12x12")
• Cabinet hinges (2)
• Magnetic catch
• Black paint or stain
• 120mm computer fans (2) - optional for active cooling
• Fan grill covers

Tools:

• Circular saw or jigsaw
• Drill/driver
• Measuring tape
• Level
• Stud finder
• Pencil

For Floor Cabinet

Materials (~$100-150):

• 3/4" plywood (one 4x8 sheet)
• 2x4 lumber for base (8 feet)
• Wood screws
• Polycarbonate sheet for front window
• Casters (4, locking)
• Ventilation grilles
• Cable grommet
• Paint

Build 1: Ceiling-Mounted Enclosure

This is the most popular design. Here's how to build it.

Step 1: Measure Your Projector

Measure your projector's dimensions plus the ceiling mount:

• Width
• Depth
• Height (including mount drop)
• Lens position (how far from front)

Add 3-4 inches on each side for airflow and adjustment room.

Example: For an Optoma GT1090HDR (12" x 9" x 4") with 6" mount drop:

• Interior width: 20"
• Interior depth: 16"
• Interior height: 14"

Step 2: Cut the Panels

Cut from 3/4" plywood:

• Top: 21.5" x 17.5" (exterior dimensions)
• Sides (2): 17.5" x 14"
• Back: 20" x 14"
• Front: 20" x 14" (with cutout for lens)

Step 3: Create the Lens Opening

The front panel needs a hole for the projector lens.

1. Measure lens position on your projector
2. Mark corresponding position on front panel
3. Cut a hole 1" larger than lens diameter on each side
4. This allows for adjustment and prevents vignetting

Step 4: Install Polycarbonate Window

The polycarbonate window protects the lens opening while allowing light through.

1. Cut polycarbonate 2" larger than the lens opening
2. Mount inside the front panel using screws and washers
3. Ensure it's secure but not stressed (polycarbonate can crack if over-tightened)

Step 5: Add Ventilation

Projectors generate significant heat. Without ventilation, they overheat and shut down - or worse, fail permanently.

Passive ventilation (minimum):

• Cut two 4" holes in the back panel
• Cover with mesh to block debris
• Heat rises and exits naturally

Active ventilation (recommended):

• Install 120mm computer fans in back panel
• Wire to USB power (5V) or 12V adapter
• One fan intake (bottom), one exhaust (top)
• Run fans whenever projector is on

Step 6: Assemble the Box

1. Attach sides to top using 2" screws
2. Add back panel
3. Front panel attaches with hinges for access
4. Install magnetic catch to keep front closed

Step 7: Mount to Ceiling

1. Locate ceiling joists with stud finder
2. Pre-drill through top panel into joists
3. Use 3" lag bolts (minimum 2, preferably 4)
4. Check level before final tightening

Step 8: Install Projector Inside

1. Mount projector bracket to top panel (interior)
2. Hang projector from bracket
3. Route power and video cables
4. Adjust projector position through front access panel
5. Close front, verify image alignment

Build 2: Floor-Standing Cabinet

For those who prefer a ground-based solution.

Dimensions

For most short-throw projectors:

• Width: 24"
• Depth: 18"
• Height: 30" (places lens at good projection height)

Construction Steps

1. Build the Frame

Use 2x4s for a sturdy base:

• Cut four 24" legs
• Cut two 21" side stretchers
• Cut two 15" depth stretchers
• Assemble box frame

2. Add Plywood Panels

• Bottom: 24" x 18"
• Top: 24" x 18" (with projector mount)
• Back: 24" x 30"
• Sides: 18" x 30"
• Front: Door with polycarbonate window

3. Install Casters

• Use locking casters rated for the weight
• Install at corners of bottom panel
• Ensure they lock securely during use

4. Ventilation

• Intake vent on bottom of back panel
• Exhaust vent near top
• Add fans for active cooling

5. Cable Management

• Install cable grommet in back panel
• Route power, HDMI, ethernet through grommet
• Use cable ties to secure loose cables

Projector Shelf vs Mount

Inside a floor cabinet, you can either:

• Mount projector upside-down on the cabinet's top interior
• Place projector on a shelf right-side up

Shelf method is simpler but makes height adjustment easier with a mounted approach.

Build 3: Protective Cage (Budget Option)

If you just need basic protection without a full enclosure.

Materials (~$40-60)

• Steel wire shelving unit (small, 12x12x12)
• Cable ties
• Eye bolts and chain (for ceiling hanging)
• Polycarbonate sheet (for front)

Assembly

1. Remove one panel from wire shelving cube
2. That open side faces the screen
3. Attach polycarbonate sheet to the front opening
4. Mount to ceiling using eye bolts and chain
5. Projector sits inside the cage

This provides impact protection while maintaining excellent ventilation. Less elegant than a wood enclosure but effective and cheap.

Ventilation: The Critical Factor

Projectors need airflow. Here's what happens with insufficient ventilation:

• Stage 1: Projector fan runs at max speed (loud)
• Stage 2: Image dims as lamp reduces power to cool down
• Stage 3: Projector shuts off completely (thermal protection)
• Stage 4: Repeated overheating kills the lamp or entire unit

Ventilation Requirements

• Minimum: 4 square inches of open ventilation (equivalent to two 2" holes)
• Recommended: 8+ square inches with convection flow
• Best: Active fan cooling with intake and exhaust

Fan Wiring Options

USB-powered fans:

• Easiest installation
• Power from projector USB port or separate USB adapter
• 5V fans are quieter but move less air

12V fans:

• More powerful airflow
• Require separate 12V power supply
• Can wire to a switched outlet so fans run when projector is on

Smart plugs:

• Plug fan power supply into smart plug
• Set to turn on/off with projector
• Automated cooling without manual switching

Finishing Touches

Paint

• Black interior reduces light reflection
• Exterior can match your room
• Use flat/matte finish inside, any sheen outside

Access Door

• Hinged door makes adjustments easy
• Magnetic catch keeps it closed during use
• Can add a small latch for security

Indicator Light

• Small LED to show when projector is on
• Helpful when enclosure hides power light
• Wire to fan power for automatic operation

Mounting Considerations by Projector Type

Short-Throw Projectors

• Mounted closer to screen (4-8 feet)
• Enclosure can be smaller
• Less likely to be in ball path (closer to screen)

Standard Throw Projectors

• Mounted 10-15+ feet from screen
• Directly in potential ball path
• Enclosure is more critical
• Consider impact-rated polycarbonate

Ultra Short-Throw Projectors

• Mount inches from screen
• Safest location (behind screen)
• Enclosure may not be necessary

Cost Comparison: DIY vs Commercial

| Option | Cost | Pros | Cons | |--------|------|------|------| | DIY Ceiling Box | $75-120 | Custom fit, satisfying build | Time required | | DIY Floor Cabinet | $100-150 | Portable, storage | Floor space | | DIY Cage | $40-60 | Quick, cheap | Basic protection | | Commercial Enclosure | $200-400 | Professional finish | Generic sizing | | Pro Installation | $400-700 | Turnkey solution | Most expensive |

Real-World Protection Stories

Golf simulator forums are full of projector casualty stories:

• "Topped a 3-iron, ball went straight into my BenQ. $1,400 lesson learned."
• "My kid's friend hit a shank that bounced off the frame and found the projector."
• "Projector fell from ceiling mount. Enclosure caught it and saved it."

The common thread: those with enclosures saved their projectors. Those without bought new ones.

Maintenance Tips

Monthly

• Check that all screws are tight
• Clean dust from ventilation openings
• Verify fans are operating

Quarterly

• Open enclosure and dust projector
• Check polycarbonate for cracks or hazing
• Verify mount stability

Annually

• Repaint interior if needed
• Replace fan filters
• Check ceiling mount bolts

Final Recommendations

If you're handy: Build the ceiling-mounted box. It's the cleanest look and most protective solution.

If you want it quick: Build the wire cage. Twenty minutes to meaningful protection.

If projector is behind you: You still want protection. Balls ricochet unpredictably.

Don't skip this step. The few hours and $50-150 is nothing compared to replacing a projector.

Related Resources

• Garage Simulator Build Guide - Complete garage conversion
• Best Short Throw Projectors - Projector buying guide
• Impact Screen Guide - Screen options and installation
• Build Your Own Simulator - Complete equipment packages